The steamboats on the lakes, in their
conveniences, cleanliness, and safety; in the gentlemanly character
and bearing of their captains; and in the politeness and perfect
comfort of their social regulations; are unsurpassed even by the
famous Scotch vessels, deservedly so much esteemed at home. The
inns are usually bad; because the custom of boarding at hotels is
not so general here as in the States, and the British officers, who
form a large portion of the society of every town, live chiefly at
the regimental messes: but in every other respect, the traveller
in Canada will find as good provision for his comfort as in any
place I know.
There is one American boat - the vessel which carried us on Lake
Champlain, from St. John's to Whitehall - which I praise very
highly, but no more than it deserves, when I say that it is
superior even to that in which we went from Queenston to Toronto,
or to that in which we travelled from the latter place to Kingston,
or I have no doubt I may add to any other in the world. This
steamboat, which is called the Burlington, is a perfectly exquisite
achievement of neatness, elegance, and order. The decks are
drawing-rooms; the cabins are boudoirs, choicely furnished and
adorned with prints, pictures, and musical instruments; every nook
and corner in the vessel is a perfect curiosity of graceful comfort
and beautiful contrivance.
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